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5. Robert Selbie, The Anatomy of Costume (New York: Crescent Books, 1977), 4.

6. Sullivan, Jeans, 13.

7. Carl Sandburg, Abraham Lincoln: The Prairie Years and the War Years, ed. Edward C. Goodman (Boston: Mariner Books, 2002), 27.

8. .

4. Dresses: From the

Toga to the Wrap Dress

1. Phyllis Tortora, “Toga” in A – Z of Fashion.

2. Robert Selbie, The Anatomy of Costume (New York: Crescent Books, 1977), 18.

3. Ibid., 14.

4. .

5. François Boucher, 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment, expanded ed. (New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1987), 303.

6. Patricia A. Cunningham, “Dress Reform,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 3, The United States and Canada.

7. Rebecca Arnold, “Madeleine Vionnet,” in A – Z of Fashion.

8. James Laver, Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution Until Today (London: G. G. Harrap, 1937), 124.

9. Hal Vaughan, Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel’s Secret War (New York: Knopf, 2011), 142.

10. Liz Mellish, “Early History of Dress,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 9, East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus.

11. Gillian Tineke Vogelsang-Eastwood Rooijakkers, “Egypt: Historical Dress,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 1, Africa.

12. Ibid.

13. Ibid.

14. James Laver, Costume (London: Cassell, 1963), 7.

15. Ibid., 32.

16. Ibid., 36.

17. Ibid., 45.

18. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 97.

19. Ibid., 97.

20. Melissa Leventon, What People Wore When: A Complete Illustrated History of Costume from Ancient Times to the Nineteenth Century for Every Level of Society (New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 2008), 154–155.

21. Boucher, 20,000 Years of Fashion, 251.

22. Ibid., 291.

23. Laver, Costume and Fashion, 130.

24. Alison Lurie, The Language of Clothes (New York: Henry Holt, 2000), 64.

25. Ibid., 69.

26. Laver, Costume and Fashion, 184–186.

27. Key Moments in Fashion: From Haute Couture to Streetwear, Key Collections, Major Figures and Crucial Moments That Changed the Course of Fashion History from 1890 to the 1990s (London: Hamlyn, 1998), 15.

28. Anne Stegemeyer, Who’s Who in Fashion, 2nd ed. (New York: Fairchild Publications, 1988), 5.

29. Ibid., 32.

30. “Carmen Says: A Couture Veteran Discusses the Way Things Were, Are, and May Never Be Again,” Garmento, Issue 1 (2010), 45.

31. .

32. Jane Eastoe and Sarah Gristwood, Fabulous Frocks (London: Pavilion, 2008), 6–7.

33. Judith Watt, ed., The Penguin Book of Twentieth-Century Fashion Writing (New York: Viking, 1999), 175.

34. Arnold Scaasi, Women I Have Dressed (and Undressed!) (New York: Scribner, 2004), 111–112.

35. Caroline Evans, Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness (New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 2003), 71.

36. Urmee Khan, “Liz Hurley ‘Safety Pin’ Dress Voted the Greatest Dress,” The Telegraph (October 9, 2008), .